The best way to Clean Travertine Tile: Interior and Exterior Upkeep Tips
Flooring Installation & Care Travertine Tile

Travertine tile will add a lifetime of beauty to your home, but only if it’s properly cared for. Before deciding that travertine stone is the best option for your home, it’s important to understand what’s involved in the cleaning and maintenance of travertine. You wouldn’t purchase a car without learning about its safety features or gas mileage. If you want your travertine stone tile to last a lifetime, it’s important to learn the ins and outs of proper travertine stone care.
sweeping-beige-stone-floor

Regular maintenance is key to a long lasting floor.
Maintenance of Travertine Installed Indoors

There are generally two types of stone that are most often used in interiors: hone-finished stone and polished-finish stone. Hone-finish stone has a satin-smooth surface with little light reflection, while Polish-finished stone has a high gloss surface that reflects light and also accentuates the color and stone markings. Honed-finish travertine stone is commonly found in high traffic areas such as floors, thresholds, and treads, whereas polished-finish stone is found on counter tops, walls, tables, and furniture.

Interior stone can generally be cleaned by dry dust mopping to remove dirt and debris. To wash your interior stone, use a neutral (PH 7) and clean water. Honed-finish stone can tolerate only a neutral PH 7 mild abrasive cleaner. It’s ideal to use a soapless cleaner, as soap can often leave streaks and film behind, which may be noticeable on polish-finished travertine stone. Ideally you should use mild, phosphate-free, biodegradable liquid dishwashing soaps or powders or stone soaps to clean your travertine.

Follow the manufacturer’s directions on the cleaning solution and gently wash in an overlapping sweeping motion from the bottom up (on a vertical surface). Change the water often as you go and rinse thoroughly with clean water. If necessary, a wet vacuum can be employed to remove contaminants from the tile. If you’re cleaning a high traffic area, an automatic scrubber fitted with a disc brush will work effectively to remove dirt and debris without damaging the stone tile.

Many foods, drinks, and cosmetics contain acids that may etch or dull a stone’s surface. For this reason, it’s important to use coasters, trivets on counter tops and tables or where food preparation is likely. Many food preparation stone surfaces use a sealant; be aware that any sealant or impregnator must be nontoxic and safe for food preparation surfaces. Spills should be blotted immediately or as soon after as possible to avoid damaging the stone’s surface. Regular cleaning with a solvent-free cleaner will keep surfaces looking their best.

Because travertine comes from the limestone family, you should never use an acid or chemical cleaner when caring for the surface. There are many cleaners readily available for stone cleaning. Your stone supplier or installer can direct you to the best cleaner available for your travertine stone.
Sealing Travertine

In order to keep your travertine tile looking like new, it is important that a sealant be applied. Some tiles will not require this, as they will be pre-sealed. To determine if your tile needs to be sealed, apply a small amount of water to the surface. If the water is absorbed by the tile and the tile darkens, it needs to be sealed. The surface preparation, density, and porosity of the stone will help you determine whether a water based or petroleum based sealer is indicated. Check for the tile manufacturer’s recommendation and then purchase the very best sealant in your budget.
Stain Removal Suggestions

Removal of most surface stains is possible by using the proper household or commercial cleaning product. The first step to removal, however, is identification. Once you have identified the cause of the stain, you will know what type of cleaning method is required to achieve the best result.

Oil-based Stains – An oil-based stain is one created by grease, cooking oil, cosmetics, tar, and other items that have any oil in them. An oil-based stain darkens the stone and will usually need to be chemically cleaned in order to dissolve and then rinse away the source. First, you must remove any excess staining agent by wiping it away if it’s soft, or in the case of tar, chipping it off. Then clean the area gently with a soft liquid cleanser. Suitable cleansers include ammonia, household detergent, acetone, or mineral spirits. It’s important that you don’t pour the cleaner directly on the staining agent itself, as that could cause the agent to thin and seep into more of the stone. Instead, wet a cloth with the cleaner and place it over the stain in order to draw the agent into the cloth. You may also use a cleaner specifically designed to remove oil-based stains such as an alkaline degreaser or a homemade poultice.
Organic Stains – An organic stain is one created by an organic substance such as coffee, tea, tobacco, fruit juice, food, paper, urine, leaves, bird droppings, or bark. These substances will often leave a pinkish-brown stain that, if outdoors, may disappear after the source of the stain has been removed because of the normal bleaching process caused by the rain and sun. However, if the stain is indoors you will have to use a cleaning formula. To make your own you can use 12% hydrogen peroxide mixed with a few drops of ammonia. You can also purchase commercially marketed cleaners or use a homemade poultice.
Ink Stains – Any form of ink, such as that found in magic markers or pens, could cause an ink stain. If the color of the stone is light, clean it with bleach or hydrogen peroxide. For darker stones use acetone or lacquer thinner. Do not pour a cleaner directly on the stain, as it could result in the staining agent thinning and spreading further along the surface. Instead, wet a cloth with the cleaning agent and allow the stain to be drawn into it.
Paint Stains – If the paint is covering only a small portion of the tile, scrape it off with a razor blade, or remove with a lacquer thinner. If a large area is covered by the paint, it must be removed with a commercially formulated liquid paint stripper. Under no circumstances should you use flame tools or acid to strip the paint from the stone.
Water Spots and Rings – Water damage occurs due to the surface accumulation of hard water. To remove these stains buff the affected area with dry #0000 steel wool.
Fire and Smoke Damage – This damage is typically seen with stone that is part of a fireplace. In order to remove the stain you must thoroughly clean the stone. This is most easily accomplished with commercially formulated smoke removal products.
Etch Marks – These stains are left by acid that has been left on the surface of the stone. Some acids will cause the finish to be etched but the surface of the stone won’t actually be stained; other acids will etch the finish and discolor the stone. Once the acid has been removed, wet the surface with water and apply marble polishing powder. Rub the powder into the stone with a buffing pad and a drill or polisher set to a low speed, or by hand with a damp cloth. Buff until the etch marks disappear and the surface shines. Honing may be needed for a deep stain that requires a professional stone refinisher.
Efflorescence – This is a white powdery substance that appears on the stone’s surface. It is caused by mineral salts within the stone being carried to the surface of the stone by water and then being left behind when the water evaporates. For new installations simply vacuum or dry mop the surface of the stone and repeat as needed until the stone has completely dried. Do not use water to remove the powder, as this could exacerbate the situation. If the problem is persistent, contact the contractor in order to identify and remedy the cause of the moisture.

Poultices

A poultice is applied to a stone tile to remove a stain. To make a poultice you must combine an absorbent material with a chemical, or mixture of chemicals, in order to form a thick paste. The poultice is then spread over the affected area in a thickness of between ¼ ” to ½ ” with a plastic or wooden implement and allowed to stand for between 24 and 48 hours. During this time, the chemical will draw the stain into the absorbent material and away from the stone. This process may have to be repeated several times in order to remove the stain. However, it is possible that the stain may not be removed completely.

Poultice Materials

Absorbent materials you can use for the poultice include fuller’s earth, kaolin, diatomaceous earth, whiting, powdered chalk, talk, and white molding plaster. About one pound of your chosen material will be needed for each square foot of tile that must be cleaned. Whiting and iron based clays such as fuller’s earth should not be used with acidic chemicals, as the reaction will prevent the poultice from being effective. Highly volatile solvents such as mineral spirits or acetone can be combined with other absorbent substances such as white paper towels, white cotton balls, or white gauze pads. Commercially available premixed poultices that require only the addition of water may also be used.

Poultice Mixtures

The poultice you decide to use will depend on the type of stain. Each type of stain will require a different mixture for optimal removal.

Oil-Based Stains – Create a poultice with water and baking soda or combine one of the powdered absorbent materials and a commercial degreaser or mineral spirits.
Organic Stains – Create a poultice with one of the powdered absorbent materials and a 12% hydrogen peroxide or acetone.
Iron Stains – Create a poultice with a commercial rust remover and diatomaceous earth. However, be careful as many rust removers will etch stone. It may be necessary to consult a professional to remove an iron stain.
Copper Stains – Create a poultice with ammonia and one of absorbent materials. However, these stains are very difficult to remove and may require the services of a professional.
Water Based Paint Stains – Create a poultice with a commercial paint remover and one of the absorbent materials.
Oil Based Paint Stains – Create a poultice with mineral spirits and one of the absorbent materials. If the stain is deep within the stone, it may require methylene chloride. If you must use a highly volatile solvent in your poultice, pour it directly on a paper towel and then place the paper towel on the affected area.
Ink Stains – Create a poultice with mineral spirits and one of the absorbent materials. If the stain is embedded deeply within the stone it may be necessary to use methylene chloride. If you do use a highly volatile solvent, pour it directly on a paper towel and place directly on the affected area.
Biological Stains – Create a poultice with ammonia and one of the absorbent materials. Instead of ammonia you can use bleach or hydrogen peroxide. Only use one of the chemicals, do not mix as they combine to create a toxic gas.

*Flammable Materials – The above text does not purport to address all possible safety concerns which are associated with the use of flammable solvents. The user is cautioned to consult the manufacturer’s labeling and MSDS for complete cleaning directions and handling directions for the individual products. There are commercial cleaners available for many of the most common stains, which may have fewer safety and health concerns.

Poultice Application

First, you will need to prepare the poultice. If you are using powdered material, mix it with the cleaning agent or chemical until a thick paste with a smooth consistency is formed. If you are using a paper product or cloth soak it in the chemical and let the excess drain. You do not want the liquid to drip. Next, you must prepare the stained area by wetting it with distilled water. You are now ready to apply the poultice. Apply ¼” to ½” of the poultice to the affected area and beyond it by about one inch using a wooden or plastic scraper or spatula to apply evenly.

Once you have applied the poultice cover it with plastic and tape the edges to seal the poultice in. Make several small holes in the plastic covering to allow ventilation. You will now need to give the poultice enough time to completely dry and draw out the stain. This could take up to 48 hours. After 24 hours remove the plastic and allow the poultice to continue drying.

Once the poultice is completely dry, remove it from the affected area, rinse with distilled water, and buff dry using a soft cloth. If the stain is still visible, repeat the process. Repetition may be required as many as five times. If the surface has been etched by one of the chemical agents, apply a polishing powder and buff with the pad recommended by the manufacturer.
Cleaning Travertine Installed Outdoors

Exterior stone is any stone or stone tile that is used on the exterior of a structure. It may be utilized as a facing material such as siding or as a structural component. The first step to maintaining travertine installed outside is routine cleaning, ideally at least once per year. This can be done simply by rinsing with clean water in order to prevent an accumulation of dirt and other impurities. If regular cleaning has not been performed, the most cost-efficient method is one of the commercially available water systems such as hydro-air, plain water, or hydraulic.

Older buildings, with an accumulation of dirt on the stones, may be more difficult to clean. A pressure washer should remove most accumulation. If additional cleaning is necessary soft bristled brushes are recommended. However, the use of chemicals on exterior stone could be detrimental to the appearance and should be used only by professionals.
Testing

Before you begin a cleaning project choose a small section to test. This will ensure that the cleaning method produces satisfactory results and is not detrimental to the stone. Ideally, the section should be in the least visible place possible in case any discoloration takes place.
Grout Sealing

Not all grouts need to be sealed. To determine if your grout needs to be sealed apply a small amount of water to the grout. If the grout darkens, a sealer is required. The two types of grout sealers are a topical sealer and a penetrating sealer. The topical sealer will create a wet look and a penetrating sealer provides a natural look, which does not affect the appearance of the grout.

One method of sealer application is to apply the sealer directly to the grout joints and buff off any that happens to adhere to the tile. Another popular method is to apply the sealer over the entire surface of the tile and grout joints and then buff the sealer off the tile with a terry cloth or soft rag. For the best results follow the manufacturer’s guidelines closely.
Grout Cleaning

As with tile, it is important that any spills be immediately wiped up from the grout. Soap-less detergents and pH balanced cleaners should be used for routine cleanings. Loosen debris in grout joints with a soft bristled brush then rinse with water and allow the area to dry. Acidic cleaners should be avoided because they can make cleaning more difficult in the future and may permanently damage or discolor grout when used repeatedly.
Stained Grout

If you need to clean a stain, or if the grout has not been cleaned routinely, a pH cleaner and soft bristled brush is still recommended. Apply the cleaner and let it rest for a few minutes and then use the brush to ensure the cleaner is thoroughly worked into the grout. If this is not adequate, it may be necessary to utilize one of the alkaline cleaners that are often labeled as providing a “deep clean.”

Another option is the use of commercial cleaning machines or buffers. These are especially useful for large areas of tile and grout that need a deep cleaning. There are several cleaning solution options for these machines.

A final option is the use of acidic cleaners, although this is the least desirable due to the problems mentioned earlier. The two safest, and most effective, options are cleaners with sulfamic acid and phosphoric acid. If you do use one of these cleaning products, it is critical that you follow the directions exactly in order to harm your flooring and tile as little as possible. No matter what cleaning method you choose, you need to thoroughly rinse, dry, and polish the area you have cleaned.
Cleaning Grout Haze

Grout haze is the residue left by the application of the grout on the face of the tile. This can often be removed by using just water and a scouring pad. If that does not produce satisfactory results a scouring cleanser may be used or a poultice and a pad. Other options include a commercially available grout haze removal cleaning solution or an acidic cleaning solution.

No matter which type of travertine you choose or where you install it, taking proper care of it is essential for lasting quality. Following these recommendations along with your manufacturer’s recommendations will help keep your space in tip top shape and your travertine in like-new condition.

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Set the vacuum at the right height

If your vacuum is set too low, you can damage the carpet as well as the vacuum’s roller brush and drive belt. If it’s set too high, you won’t pick up any dirt. To set the vacuum’s ideal height, raise it to its highest setting, turn it on and lower it until you can feel the vacuum trying to tug itself forward.

Dirt is like thousands of little blades that cut carpet fibers. When you walk across a dirty carpet, you grind sharp dirt particles against the yarn, making tiny nicks in the fibers. All that fuzz mixed in with the dirt in your vacuum cleaner bags is your beautiful carpet headed out the door one bag at a time. When dirt scratches the fibers, it dulls the sheen, which is why high-traffic areas appear duller than the rest of the carpet. Over time, grinding dirt wears away the fibers too, which mats them down and makes them stain more easily. Follow these tips to keep your carpet as dirt-free as possible.

Vacuum often
To protect your carpet, vacuum entrance areas and high-traffic areas twice a week and the rest of the carpeting at least weekly. Oily soils attract oily soils, and frequent vacuuming will reduce soil buildup.

Start with a clean bag or filter
A dirty bag, dirt cup or filter can cut a vacuum’s suction power in half. The main reason bagless vacuums stop working is that the filters aren’t changed often enough. Replace or wash (if possible) the filters on bagless vacuums every three months. Replace vacuum bags when they’re three-quarters full.

Vacuum at the right speed
Vacuum slowly enough to get out as much dirt as possible. Make one quick pass over low-traffic areas and two slow passes over high-traffic areas. Two slow passes removes ground-in dirt more effectively than several fast passes.

Use walk-off mats
Use walk-off mats inside and out to keep dirt off the carpeting. Coarse-textured mats outside your doors remove soil. Water-absorbent mats inside prevent wet shoes on the carpeting.

Four ways to recognize quality pros: 1. Truck mounted equipment

Truck-mounted equipment is a better choice than portable steam cleaning equipment because it exhausts the dirty air and humidity outside. Its stronger suction leaves carpets drier, too.

Most carpet manufacturers recommend professional hot water extraction as the primary cleaning method for synthetic carpets. Although it’s often referred to as “steam” cleaning, there’s no steam involved. The carpet is pretreated with a detergent solution, and then a very hot rinse solution under high pressure is forced into your carpet and vacuumed out. When done correctly, this process cleans deep and doesn’t leave behind a soap residue. Quality pros charge $200 to $300 to deep clean 1,000 sq. ft. of carpet. At that price, you might be tempted to skip professional cleanings altogether and just rent a machine to clean the carpet yourself. Don’t. Or at least don’t do only that. A rented or purchased carpet-cleaning machine will remove the surface dirt. But deep cleaning to remove allergens, dust and greasy residues requires the specialized equipment and training of a pro. The best strategy is to use our DIY cleaning tips most of the time and hire a professional every 12 to 18 months.

Don’t take bids over the phone
Quality pros will provide references, an in-home inspection and a written estimate based on the square footage, type and condition of the carpeting rather than the number of rooms cleaned, and a written guarantee of their work.

Beware of “discount” carpet cleaners
Discount pros depend on making volume sales rather than establishing ongoing client relationships. They typically spray soap on your carpet, suck up the water and are gone in 30 minutes. These services leave behind a soap residue that will actually attract dirt to your carpet. Those “three rooms for 50 bucks” offers also get them into your house so they can sell you high-priced add-ons like spot removal and deodorizers—services that quality pros include for free.

You get what you pay for
Quality pros charge according to the type of carpeting, the services you need and the size of the job. The entire process can take one to three hours.

Use DIY machines carefully

Hurrying through a cleaning will leave soap residue, a soaked carpet and a pad that can mold or mildew. Larger rental machines require you to pull them across the floor rather than push.

Carpet pros do a more thorough job than you can, but hiring a pro is expensive. So the next-best approach is to alternate between DIY and pro cleanings. DIY “steam”-cleaning machines can be effective if you understand how to use them and take the time to clean your carpet carefully.

You can rent a steam cleaner from a grocery store or home center. If you pick the machine up late in the day, many stores will charge you a half-day rate and let you keep the machine until the next morning. The detergent cost is additional. Typically you should use a tablespoon or less per gallon of water.

If you prefer to buy a steam-cleaning machine, plan to spend $60 to $300 or more. The pricier models have more powerful water jets and suction, and some even have a heating element to keep the water hot. The reviews on these machines are mixed, and some are prone to breakdowns. Do some online research (type “carpet cleaning machines” into your browser) before you buy.

Most rental machines weigh more, hold more water and come with a wider wand than purchased models, making them useful for larger, high-traffic areas. Purchased models are usually smaller, more portable and easier to store. They’re good for spot cleaning and are easier to drag up and down stairs. Whether you rent or buy, avoid damaging your carpets and make your cleaning last longer by following our tips.

Clean the carpet before it becomes really dirty
How often your carpet needs cleaning depends on the kind of carpet traffic you have (think kids and pets). Clean the carpet when the color starts looking dull. If you wait until the carpet is filthy, cleaning it will be much more difficult, take much longer and cost more.

Vacuum well before and after cleaning
Vacuum beforehand to remove large particles of soil. Vacuum again after you clean and the carpet is completely dry to pick up soil that wicks to the surface during drying.

Pre-treat stains and high-traffic areas
Mix a drop of detergent with hot water in a spray bottle and lightly mist the dirtiest areas. Let sit 5 to 10 minutes before starting the general cleaning.

Remove or elevate furniture
If your furniture is too heavy to move, put aluminum foil squares, wood blocks or plastic film under and around the legs of all furniture to prevent rust from metal casters or stains from paint and finishes from transferring to damp carpet.

Don’t over wet the carpet
DIY machines put a lot of moisture into the carpet, and most don’t have strong enough suction to extract it thoroughly. Make only one pass with the soap and water solution. Make one pass with the neutralizing rinse solution. Then make two or three drying passes with the water off.

Let it dry thoroughly
Wet carpet is a perfect environment for mold and mildew. After you clean your carpets, open the windows, use fans and a dehumidifier, or put the AC on a moderate setting (72 to 78 degrees) to remove excess moisture from the air. Don’t replace the furniture or walk on the carpet until it’s completely dry. This can take up to 12 hours, though six to eight hours is typical.

Don’t dig or scoop food spills

Digging or scooping can work the stain into the carpet. If there are solids on top of the stain, use a spoon or dull knife to carefully scrape the food toward the middle of the spill and into a white towel and then treat the stain.

Act quickly
If you get to a stain immediately, there’s a 99 percent chance you can remove it. The longer a stain reacts chemically with the carpeting, the harder it is to remove.

Try water first
Eighty percent of stains can be removed using plain tap water. To remove a stain, press a clean, dry, white cloth over the stain to absorb the spill. Repeat until the spill is absorbed. Then gently work water into the stain with a damp white towel and blot until the stain is gone. Change cloths when necessary. For a particularly stubborn spot, go to the online “spot solver” resource at The Carpet and Rug Institute (the carpet manufacturers’ trade organization) to find your stain and a suggested solution. Use a fan to dry the area if it’s very wet.

Blot—don’t rub or scrub
Scrubbing a stain will damage the fibers and create a fuzzy area. Always blot from the outer edge toward the center of the stain to avoid spreading the spot and creating a larger problem.

Be patient
Work water gently into the spill and then blot with a dry cloth. Repeat until the stain is gone and all the water has been absorbed. If you’re patient, you’ll almost always be able to remove the stain.

On tough spots, try vinegar or club soda
If water alone doesn’t remove a stain, try a white vinegar and water solution (equal amounts) or club soda before trying stronger commercial cleaning products.

Test commercial products first
Some products can cause carpet to get dirty faster or damage the carpet’s color and texture. For a list of carpet manufacturer- approved spot and stain cleaners, go online to The Carpet and Rug Institute. Test carpet-cleaning

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Commercial carpet is a unique animal. It”s not like the fluffy stuff in Mrs. Jones” living room, installed over a squishy eight-pound pad. Mrs. Jones” carpet has plenty of airflow, making it ideal to clean with hot water extraction.

By comparison, commercial carpet is normally glued directly to the floor, without padding. Typically, the tufts of fiber are densely packed together to the point that it would be hard to separate the tuft bundles with a scalpel. Since the tufts of fiber are crammed together and the carpet is glued to the floor, there is minimal airflow, making it a real challenge to achieve consistent results with hot water extraction.

So what”s a poor commercial carpet cleaner to do? Low moisture encapsulation cleaning can solve many common problems. Proper encapsulation cleaning can greatly reduce the potential for wicking.

The encapsulation process is changing the landscape when it comes to commercial carpet care. Here are three encapsulation tricks that can help you avoid the dreaded “morning after-call.”

End recurring spills

One of the things that drive people nuts with commercial carpet is the frequent recurring spill spots. In spite of the cleaner”s best efforts, these drink spills keep returning like a bad dream.

If you encounter a spill that looks like it might return after the carpet has been cleaned, this encap trick can make you look like a hero.

Scrub a circle around the drink spill spot with any type of scrubbing machine. Leave the actual spot bone dry. You”ll now have a wet circle that you scrubbed around the spot, and a totally dry spot in the center.

Now criss-cross back and forth over the spill stain without applying any additional detergent. The only moisture that you”re applying to the spill stain is what you”re drawing from the perimeter as you scrub back and forth across the spot. Scrub the spot like this for a full one to two minutes.

After you have performed this massive amount of low moisture scrubbing, apply some encapsulation detergent mixed 50/50 with water. The 50/50 mixture will encapsulate any sugary drink residue that may still be down at the backing of the carpet. By carefully following these steps, the recurring spill stain will not come back again.

Fix potential ”browners”

Sometimes a commercial carpet can become totally loaded with soil all the way down to the backing of the carpet, especially if the carpet has been neglected or hasn”t received adequate dry soil management.

You can observe this condition if you pry the tufts of fiber apart and inspect the backing of the carpet. If what you see at the base of the carpet appears dark brown — or black — rather than white, there”s a good chance that this carpet will wick after it”s been cleaned.

It”s also likely that the color of the residue will wick with a brown appearance because of the raw dirt that”s packed into the backing of the carpet. No degree of vacuuming or powerhouse hot water extraction can remove all of the deeply embedded soil. When you discover this unpleasant condition, here”s an encap trick that”ll get this potential problem sorted out for you.

Cleaning the carpet with a strong dilution of a hydrogen peroxide-based encapsulation detergent is an effective way to prevent browning (not the cellulosic type from jute backing, but the heavy soil itself) from occurring.

Hydrogen peroxide-based encapsulation detergents are acidic in nature and the hydrogen peroxide property works very well to overcome potential browning conditions.

Mixing the detergent a little stronger than normal will allow you to scrub the carpet using less liquid. Adding air movers can also help to dry the carpet quickly. Fast drying helps prevent wicking and brown discoloration from occurring.

This little trick can save your company money and callbacks when a commercial carpet is loaded with soil and wicking/browning would normally be a concern.

Extract via encap/bonneting

Commercial glue down carpet is easy to maintain with encapsulation cleaning. The encap shampoo process is ideal for bringing wicking under control and for keeping commercial carpet looking great.

At varying intervals, according to traffic conditions, hot water extraction can be employed to give the carpet a good rinse. A simple form of light soil extraction can also be employed through post-bonneting, following the encap shampoo process. This can be a helpful way to make a stubborn section of a carpet “pop.”

For example, there are many situations where an entire carpet cleaned up nicely with the encap shampoo method, while a particular section with a very high soil load stubbornly resisted cleaning. In this case, finishing off that section with a bonnet can pull a little extra soil.

After the carpet has been cleaned with the encapsulation method, simply go over the selected area of carpet with a damp bonnet. This little trick can bring a hammered section of carpet back to an acceptable appearance level.

Turn the tables

Commercial carpet is indeed a different animal than residential carpet, which means a different approach should be considered.

By using low moisture methods and good encapsulation chemistry, it”s possible to turn the tables on the challenging nature of commercial glue down carpet.

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