Best rated steam cleaning tiles ervices in Orange County

Using a steam cleaner to clean ceramic tile on the floor and the walls can remove that sticky residue often left behind when using traditional floor cleaners. The high-pressure steam both cleans and disinfects the ceramic tile surfaces without the use of harsh chemicals that can sometimes damage ceramic tile or grout. Using a steam cleaner protects your skin from those same harsh chemicals. Steam cleaners can heat the water up to 220-degrees Fahrenheit to blast dirt out of small cracks and crevices that a regular mop would leave behind.

1

Sweep your ceramic tile floor with a broom or dust mop to pick up larger items of debris that the steam cleaner might not catch. Wipe down ceramic tile walls with a dust rag to remove cobwebs that sometimes gather in the corners.

2

Remove the fill cap and fill the water tank on your steam cleaner with distilled water. Depending on the type of steam cleaner you own, the tank attaches to the handle or is a separate container. Do not add any cleaning products to your water tank. Replace the fill cap.

3

Attach the microfiber cloth provided with your steam cleaner to the steam cleaner head. Some steam cleaner cloths attach to the cleaner head with hook and latch strips while others use elastic.

4

Plug your steam cleaner into the wall outlet. Turn on your unit if your unit has a separate on off switch. Some units turn on automatically when you plug the cord into the wall outlet. Some models of steam cleaners are ready for use within 30 seconds, while others require several minutes to heat the water in the tank.

5

Pump the handle or squeezed the trigger on your steam cleaner to release the steam through the microfiber cloth. Move your steam cleaner’s head back and forth over your ceramic tile the same way you would when mopping your floor with water.

6

Unplug your steam cleaner from the wall outlet to change the microfiber cloth or to change an attachment to clean ceramic tile on the wall. Plug the steam cleaner back into the wall outlet to heat the water.

7

Clean ceramic tile on walls or countertops by moving the microfiber cloth or attachment back and forth across the tile. When steam cleaning shower wall tile, wipe the tile down with a terry cloth towel immediately after cleaning to remove the loosened soap scum and hard water deposits.

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Best rated steam cleaning tiles ervices in Orange County

Using a steam cleaner to clean ceramic tile on the floor and the walls can remove that sticky residue often left behind when using traditional floor cleaners. The high-pressure steam both cleans and disinfects the ceramic tile surfaces without the use of harsh chemicals that can sometimes damage ceramic tile or grout. Using a steam cleaner protects your skin from those same harsh chemicals. Steam cleaners can heat the water up to 220-degrees Fahrenheit to blast dirt out of small cracks and crevices that a regular mop would leave behind.

1

Sweep your ceramic tile floor with a broom or dust mop to pick up larger items of debris that the steam cleaner might not catch. Wipe down ceramic tile walls with a dust rag to remove cobwebs that sometimes gather in the corners.

2

Remove the fill cap and fill the water tank on your steam cleaner with distilled water. Depending on the type of steam cleaner you own, the tank attaches to the handle or is a separate container. Do not add any cleaning products to your water tank. Replace the fill cap.

3

Attach the microfiber cloth provided with your steam cleaner to the steam cleaner head. Some steam cleaner cloths attach to the cleaner head with hook and latch strips while others use elastic.

4

Plug your steam cleaner into the wall outlet. Turn on your unit if your unit has a separate on off switch. Some units turn on automatically when you plug the cord into the wall outlet. Some models of steam cleaners are ready for use within 30 seconds, while others require several minutes to heat the water in the tank.

5

Pump the handle or squeezed the trigger on your steam cleaner to release the steam through the microfiber cloth. Move your steam cleaner’s head back and forth over your ceramic tile the same way you would when mopping your floor with water.

6

Unplug your steam cleaner from the wall outlet to change the microfiber cloth or to change an attachment to clean ceramic tile on the wall. Plug the steam cleaner back into the wall outlet to heat the water.

7

Clean ceramic tile on walls or countertops by moving the microfiber cloth or attachment back and forth across the tile. When steam cleaning shower wall tile, wipe the tile down with a terry cloth towel immediately after cleaning to remove the loosened soap scum and hard water deposits.

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best rated Steam Carpet Cleaning Services Orange County

How To Steam Clean Carpeting – Orange County

Vacuum first! Carpet steamers (also known as carpet shampooers) aren’t vacuums. They’re specifically designed to wash and at least partially dry carpets, extracting grime as they go. If you want them to get the ground-in dirt out of your carpet, you must vacuum it thoroughly before steam cleaning it. That doesn’t mean your usual quick back-and-forth over the carpet, either. To thoroughly vacuum your carpet, you need to follow a few extra steps.

  1. Pick up all toys, books and other items on the floor.
  2. Remove your furniture or, at the very least, pick up smaller pieces (floor lamps, ottomans, etc.) and take them to another room.
  3. Dust your baseboards so you’re not just knocking stuff off of them and back on to your freshly-vacuumed carpet.
  4. Using your crevice attachment, go around the base of the walls, fireplace hearth, and all of the edges of the carpeting.
  5. If you weren’t able to remove all of your furniture, use the crevice attachment to go around the base of heavier, immobile items (e.g., a piano).
  6. Switch to the flooring attachment (it’s a flat one, usually with small rollers on the bottom) and vacuum beneath heavier furniture, like a raised sofa or armchair.
  7. Using the standard vacuum set-up, vacuum your carpeting slowly in one direction using a back-and-forth motion. When you’ve completed the entire room, vacuum it again from a 90-degree angle. Although this seems like overkill, it’s not, since carpet fibers are actually twisted so vacuuming from different directions ensures each “side” of the fiber gets cleaned.

Treat stains next. Yes, the carpet cleaning machine will remove quite a bit of grime and dust from your flooring, but the heat involved can also set stains, making them even more difficult to remove. You’ve probably experienced this yourself, having cleaned your carpet only to find the stains returning a few days later. Why? Because the cleaning process forced the grime into the carpet pad and later the carpet fibers wicked it out of the pad and back to the surface.

I’ve been through that same frustration myself, so here’s my tutorial about how to remove carpet stains. For even scarier stains, see my guide on how to remove dried paint and other set-in stains from carpet.

Prepare the room: If you can remove all of the furniture from the room, great. If not, you’ll want to cut squares of wax paper or aluminum foil and slide them beneath the edges or feet of furniture. This will protect your furniture and keep it from absorbing any moisture in the carpet left behind after steam cleaning. Leave them in place until the carpet is thoroughly dry, usually about a day.

It’s always a good idea to spot-test any cleaning product you plan to use on your carpet. I recommend testing in a closet or other out-of-the-way location. This way you don’t risk damaging or fading your carpet with a product that’s not right for it.

Use the machine properly. Most carpet steam cleaners are designed to lay down water when you’re pushing the machine forward then extract it while you pull it back. Be sure to pull the machine VERY slowly so you can extract as much water as possible. Too much water left behind will cause your carpet padding to get soaked and can lead to mold, mildew, and horrible odors. For this reason it’s also best to steam clean carpeting when the weather is warm enough to open the windows, since that will speed up drying considerably.

My two-step process: If you are concerned about your machine’s warranty then, by all means, use the products recommended by the manufacturer. I’ve had great success using the following two-step method and it’s never caused a problem with my machine.

Most carpet cleaning machine manufacturers recommend using their specially-formulated products. These products are also highly perfumed, something that can irritate allergies and asthma. I’ve also found they don’t clean any better than using a homemade solution while costing much, much more.

Step One: For the first step, I use 1 tablespoon of Dr. Bronner’s Castile Soap for every quart of almost (but not) boiling water while filling my machine’s tank. This stuff is amazing in its ability to power through grime, and I’m always amazed at just what a difference that first pass-through makes to my carpet. But Dr. Bronner’s is soap, and leaving soap on carpeting can attract even more grime, which is why I do a second pass-through.

Step Two: On the second go-through, I use a 50-50 mix of white vinegar and almost boiling water which has the effect of neutralizing the soap while extracting it along with any remaining grime.

How often? At a minimum, you need to steam clean your carpeting once a year. If you have pets, suffer from allergies, or wear shoes indoors then you’ll want to steam clean or shampoo your carpet more often — in late Spring and late Autumn are good times since it’s typically warm enough to open the windows to speed the drying process. Between steam cleanings or shampooing it’s important that you vacuum your carpets at least once a week, including around the base of the walls, and more often in high-traffic areas.

Call today for a Free estimate 949-545-5205!

Call on Pacific Carpet & Tile Cleaning in Orange County CA  (949) 545-5205   www.pacificcarpetcleaning.net

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Set the vacuum at the right height

Best rated Carpet cleaning in Orange County

If your vacuum is set too low, you can damage the carpet as well as the vacuum’s roller brush and drive belt. If it’s set too high, you won’t pick up any dirt. To set the vacuum’s ideal height, raise it to its highest setting, turn it on and lower it until you can feel the vacuum trying to tug itself forward.

Dirt is like thousands of little blades that cut carpet fibers. When you walk across a dirty carpet, you grind sharp dirt particles against the yarn, making tiny nicks in the fibers. All that fuzz mixed in with the dirt in your vacuum cleaner bags is your beautiful carpet headed out the door one bag at a time. When dirt scratches the fibers, it dulls the sheen, which is why high-traffic areas appear duller than the rest of the carpet. Over time, grinding dirt wears away the fibers too, which mats them down and makes them stain more easily. Follow these tips to keep your carpet as dirt-free as possible.

Vacuum often
To protect your carpet, vacuum entrance areas and high-traffic areas twice a week and the rest of the carpeting at least weekly. Oily soils attract oily soils, and frequent vacuuming will reduce soil buildup.

Start with a clean bag or filter
A dirty bag, dirt cup or filter can cut a vacuum’s suction power in half. The main reason bagless vacuums stop working is that the filters aren’t changed often enough. Replace or wash (if possible) the filters on bagless vacuums every three months. Replace vacuum bags when they’re three-quarters full.

Vacuum at the right speed
Vacuum slowly enough to get out as much dirt as possible. Make one quick pass over low-traffic areas and two slow passes over high-traffic areas. Two slow passes removes ground-in dirt more effectively than several fast passes.

Use walk-off mats
Use walk-off mats inside and out to keep dirt off the carpeting. Coarse-textured mats outside your doors remove soil. Water-absorbent mats inside prevent wet shoes on the carpeting.

Four ways to recognize quality pros: 1. Truck mounted equipment

Truck-mounted equipment is a better choice than portable steam cleaning equipment because it exhausts the dirty air and humidity outside. Its stronger suction leaves carpets drier, too.

Most carpet manufacturers recommend professional hot water extraction as the primary cleaning method for synthetic carpets. Although it’s often referred to as “steam” cleaning, there’s no steam involved. The carpet is pretreated with a detergent solution, and then a very hot rinse solution under high pressure is forced into your carpet and vacuumed out. When done correctly, this process cleans deep and doesn’t leave behind a soap residue. Quality pros charge $200 to $300 to deep clean 1,000 sq. ft. of carpet. At that price, you might be tempted to skip professional cleanings altogether and just rent a machine to clean the carpet yourself. Don’t. Or at least don’t do only that. A rented or purchased carpet-cleaning machine will remove the surface dirt. But deep cleaning to remove allergens, dust and greasy residues requires the specialized equipment and training of a pro. The best strategy is to use our DIY cleaning tips most of the time and hire a professional every 12 to 18 months.

Don’t take bids over the phone
Quality pros will provide references, an in-home inspection and a written estimate based on the square footage, type and condition of the carpeting rather than the number of rooms cleaned, and a written guarantee of their work.

Beware of “discount” carpet cleaners
Discount pros depend on making volume sales rather than establishing ongoing client relationships. They typically spray soap on your carpet, suck up the water and are gone in 30 minutes. These services leave behind a soap residue that will actually attract dirt to your carpet. Those “three rooms for 50 bucks” offers also get them into your house so they can sell you high-priced add-ons like spot removal and deodorizers—services that quality pros include for free.

You get what you pay for
Quality pros charge according to the type of carpeting, the services you need and the size of the job. The entire process can take one to three hours.

Use DIY machines carefully

Hurrying through a cleaning will leave soap residue, a soaked carpet and a pad that can mold or mildew. Larger rental machines require you to pull them across the floor rather than push.

Carpet pros do a more thorough job than you can, but hiring a pro is expensive. So the next-best approach is to alternate between DIY and pro cleanings. DIY “steam”-cleaning machines can be effective if you understand how to use them and take the time to clean your carpet carefully.

You can rent a steam cleaner from a grocery store or home center. If you pick the machine up late in the day, many stores will charge you a half-day rate and let you keep the machine until the next morning. The detergent cost is additional. Typically you should use a tablespoon or less per gallon of water.

If you prefer to buy a steam-cleaning machine, plan to spend $60 to $300 or more. The pricier models have more powerful water jets and suction, and some even have a heating element to keep the water hot. The reviews on these machines are mixed, and some are prone to breakdowns. Do some online research (type “carpet cleaning machines” into your browser) before you buy.

Most rental machines weigh more, hold more water and come with a wider wand than purchased models, making them useful for larger, high-traffic areas. Purchased models are usually smaller, more portable and easier to store. They’re good for spot cleaning and are easier to drag up and down stairs. Whether you rent or buy, avoid damaging your carpets and make your cleaning last longer by following our tips.

Clean the carpet before it becomes really dirty
How often your carpet needs cleaning depends on the kind of carpet traffic you have (think kids and pets). Clean the carpet when the color starts looking dull. If you wait until the carpet is filthy, cleaning it will be much more difficult, take much longer and cost more.

Vacuum well before and after cleaning
Vacuum beforehand to remove large particles of soil. Vacuum again after you clean and the carpet is completely dry to pick up soil that wicks to the surface during drying.

Pre-treat stains and high-traffic areas
Mix a drop of detergent with hot water in a spray bottle and lightly mist the dirtiest areas. Let sit 5 to 10 minutes before starting the general cleaning.

Remove or elevate furniture
If your furniture is too heavy to move, put aluminum foil squares, wood blocks or plastic film under and around the legs of all furniture to prevent rust from metal casters or stains from paint and finishes from transferring to damp carpet.

Don’t over wet the carpet
DIY machines put a lot of moisture into the carpet, and most don’t have strong enough suction to extract it thoroughly. Make only one pass with the soap and water solution. Make one pass with the neutralizing rinse solution. Then make two or three drying passes with the water off.

Let it dry thoroughly
Wet carpet is a perfect environment for mold and mildew. After you clean your carpets, open the windows, use fans and a dehumidifier, or put the AC on a moderate setting (72 to 78 degrees) to remove excess moisture from the air. Don’t replace the furniture or walk on the carpet until it’s completely dry. This can take up to 12 hours, though six to eight hours is typical.

Don’t dig or scoop food spills

Digging or scooping can work the stain into the carpet. If there are solids on top of the stain, use a spoon or dull knife to carefully scrape the food toward the middle of the spill and into a white towel and then treat the stain.

 

Act quickly
If you get to a stain immediately, there’s a 99 percent chance you can remove it. The longer a stain reacts chemically with the carpeting, the harder it is to remove.

Try water first
Eighty percent of stains can be removed using plain tap water. To remove a stain, press a clean, dry, white cloth over the stain to absorb the spill. Repeat until the spill is absorbed. Then gently work water into the stain with a damp white towel and blot until the stain is gone. Change cloths when necessary. For a particularly stubborn spot, go to the online “spot solver” resource at The Carpet and Rug Institute (the carpet manufacturers’ trade organization) to find your stain and a suggested solution. Use a fan to dry the area if it’s very wet.

Blot—don’t rub or scrub
Scrubbing a stain will damage the fibers and create a fuzzy area. Always blot from the outer edge toward the center of the stain to avoid spreading the spot and creating a larger problem.

Be patient
Work water gently into the spill and then blot with a dry cloth. Repeat until the stain is gone and all the water has been absorbed. If you’re patient, you’ll almost always be able to remove the stain.

On tough spots, try vinegar or club soda
If water alone doesn’t remove a stain, try a white vinegar and water solution (equal amounts) or club soda before trying stronger commercial cleaning products.

Test commercial products first
Some products can cause carpet to get dirty faster or damage the carpet’s color and texture. For a list of carpet manufacturer- approved spot and stain cleaners, go online to The Carpet and Rug Institute. Test carpet-cleaning

Call today for a Free estimate 949-545-5205!

Call on Pacific Carpet & Tile Cleaning in Orange County CA  (949) 545-5205   www.pacificcarpetcleaning.net

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Commercial carpet is a unique animal. It”s not like the fluffy stuff in Mrs. Jones” living room, installed over a squishy eight-pound pad. Mrs. Jones” carpet has plenty of airflow, making it ideal to clean with hot water extraction.

By comparison, commercial carpet is normally glued directly to the floor, without padding. Typically, the tufts of fiber are densely packed together to the point that it would be hard to separate the tuft bundles with a scalpel. Since the tufts of fiber are crammed together and the carpet is glued to the floor, there is minimal airflow, making it a real challenge to achieve consistent results with hot water extraction.

So what”s a poor commercial carpet cleaner to do? Low moisture encapsulation cleaning can solve many common problems. Proper encapsulation cleaning can greatly reduce the potential for wicking.

The encapsulation process is changing the landscape when it comes to commercial carpet care. Here are three encapsulation tricks that can help you avoid the dreaded “morning after-call.”

End recurring spills

One of the things that drive people nuts with commercial carpet is the frequent recurring spill spots. In spite of the cleaner”s best efforts, these drink spills keep returning like a bad dream.

If you encounter a spill that looks like it might return after the carpet has been cleaned, this encap trick can make you look like a hero.

Scrub a circle around the drink spill spot with any type of scrubbing machine. Leave the actual spot bone dry. You”ll now have a wet circle that you scrubbed around the spot, and a totally dry spot in the center.

Now criss-cross back and forth over the spill stain without applying any additional detergent. The only moisture that you”re applying to the spill stain is what you”re drawing from the perimeter as you scrub back and forth across the spot. Scrub the spot like this for a full one to two minutes.

After you have performed this massive amount of low moisture scrubbing, apply some encapsulation detergent mixed 50/50 with water. The 50/50 mixture will encapsulate any sugary drink residue that may still be down at the backing of the carpet. By carefully following these steps, the recurring spill stain will not come back again.

Fix potential ”browners”

Sometimes a commercial carpet can become totally loaded with soil all the way down to the backing of the carpet, especially if the carpet has been neglected or hasn”t received adequate dry soil management.

You can observe this condition if you pry the tufts of fiber apart and inspect the backing of the carpet. If what you see at the base of the carpet appears dark brown — or black — rather than white, there”s a good chance that this carpet will wick after it”s been cleaned.

It”s also likely that the color of the residue will wick with a brown appearance because of the raw dirt that”s packed into the backing of the carpet. No degree of vacuuming or powerhouse hot water extraction can remove all of the deeply embedded soil. When you discover this unpleasant condition, here”s an encap trick that”ll get this potential problem sorted out for you.

Cleaning the carpet with a strong dilution of a hydrogen peroxide-based encapsulation detergent is an effective way to prevent browning (not the cellulosic type from jute backing, but the heavy soil itself) from occurring.

Hydrogen peroxide-based encapsulation detergents are acidic in nature and the hydrogen peroxide property works very well to overcome potential browning conditions.

Mixing the detergent a little stronger than normal will allow you to scrub the carpet using less liquid. Adding air movers can also help to dry the carpet quickly. Fast drying helps prevent wicking and brown discoloration from occurring.

This little trick can save your company money and callbacks when a commercial carpet is loaded with soil and wicking/browning would normally be a concern.

Extract via encap/bonneting

Commercial glue down carpet is easy to maintain with encapsulation cleaning. The encap shampoo process is ideal for bringing wicking under control and for keeping commercial carpet looking great.

At varying intervals, according to traffic conditions, hot water extraction can be employed to give the carpet a good rinse. A simple form of light soil extraction can also be employed through post-bonneting, following the encap shampoo process. This can be a helpful way to make a stubborn section of a carpet “pop.”

For example, there are many situations where an entire carpet cleaned up nicely with the encap shampoo method, while a particular section with a very high soil load stubbornly resisted cleaning. In this case, finishing off that section with a bonnet can pull a little extra soil.

After the carpet has been cleaned with the encapsulation method, simply go over the selected area of carpet with a damp bonnet. This little trick can bring a hammered section of carpet back to an acceptable appearance level.

Turn the tables

Commercial carpet is indeed a different animal than residential carpet, which means a different approach should be considered.

By using low moisture methods and good encapsulation chemistry, it”s possible to turn the tables on the challenging nature of commercial glue down carpet.

Call today for a Free estimate 949-545-5205!

Call on Pacific Carpet & Tile Cleaning in Orange County CA  (949) 545-5205   www.pacificcarpetcleaning.net

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Commercial carpet is a unique animal. It”s not like the fluffy stuff in Mrs. Jones” living room, installed over a squishy eight-pound pad. Mrs. Jones” carpet has plenty of airflow, making it ideal to clean with hot water extraction.

By comparison, commercial carpet is normally glued directly to the floor, without padding. Typically, the tufts of fiber are densely packed together to the point that it would be hard to separate the tuft bundles with a scalpel. Since the tufts of fiber are crammed together and the carpet is glued to the floor, there is minimal airflow, making it a real challenge to achieve consistent results with hot water extraction.

So what”s a poor commercial carpet cleaner to do? Low moisture encapsulation cleaning can solve many common problems. Proper encapsulation cleaning can greatly reduce the potential for wicking.

The encapsulation process is changing the landscape when it comes to commercial carpet care. Here are three encapsulation tricks that can help you avoid the dreaded “morning after-call.”

End recurring spills

One of the things that drive people nuts with commercial carpet is the frequent recurring spill spots. In spite of the cleaner”s best efforts, these drink spills keep returning like a bad dream.

If you encounter a spill that looks like it might return after the carpet has been cleaned, this encap trick can make you look like a hero.

Scrub a circle around the drink spill spot with any type of scrubbing machine. Leave the actual spot bone dry. You”ll now have a wet circle that you scrubbed around the spot, and a totally dry spot in the center.

Now criss-cross back and forth over the spill stain without applying any additional detergent. The only moisture that you”re applying to the spill stain is what you”re drawing from the perimeter as you scrub back and forth across the spot. Scrub the spot like this for a full one to two minutes.

After you have performed this massive amount of low moisture scrubbing, apply some encapsulation detergent mixed 50/50 with water. The 50/50 mixture will encapsulate any sugary drink residue that may still be down at the backing of the carpet. By carefully following these steps, the recurring spill stain will not come back again.

Fix potential ”browners”

Sometimes a commercial carpet can become totally loaded with soil all the way down to the backing of the carpet, especially if the carpet has been neglected or hasn”t received adequate dry soil management.

You can observe this condition if you pry the tufts of fiber apart and inspect the backing of the carpet. If what you see at the base of the carpet appears dark brown — or black — rather than white, there”s a good chance that this carpet will wick after it”s been cleaned.

It”s also likely that the color of the residue will wick with a brown appearance because of the raw dirt that”s packed into the backing of the carpet. No degree of vacuuming or powerhouse hot water extraction can remove all of the deeply embedded soil. When you discover this unpleasant condition, here”s an encap trick that”ll get this potential problem sorted out for you.

Cleaning the carpet with a strong dilution of a hydrogen peroxide-based encapsulation detergent is an effective way to prevent browning (not the cellulosic type from jute backing, but the heavy soil itself) from occurring.

Hydrogen peroxide-based encapsulation detergents are acidic in nature and the hydrogen peroxide property works very well to overcome potential browning conditions.

Mixing the detergent a little stronger than normal will allow you to scrub the carpet using less liquid. Adding air movers can also help to dry the carpet quickly. Fast drying helps prevent wicking and brown discoloration from occurring.

This little trick can save your company money and callbacks when a commercial carpet is loaded with soil and wicking/browning would normally be a concern.

Extract via encap/bonneting

Commercial glue down carpet is easy to maintain with encapsulation cleaning. The encap shampoo process is ideal for bringing wicking under control and for keeping commercial carpet looking great.

At varying intervals, according to traffic conditions, hot water extraction can be employed to give the carpet a good rinse. A simple form of light soil extraction can also be employed through post-bonneting, following the encap shampoo process. This can be a helpful way to make a stubborn section of a carpet “pop.”

For example, there are many situations where an entire carpet cleaned up nicely with the encap shampoo method, while a particular section with a very high soil load stubbornly resisted cleaning. In this case, finishing off that section with a bonnet can pull a little extra soil.

After the carpet has been cleaned with the encapsulation method, simply go over the selected area of carpet with a damp bonnet. This little trick can bring a hammered section of carpet back to an acceptable appearance level.

Turn the tables

Commercial carpet is indeed a different animal than residential carpet, which means a different approach should be considered.

By using low moisture methods and good encapsulation chemistry, it”s possible to turn the tables on the challenging nature of commercial glue down carpet.

Call today for a Free estimate 949-545-5205!

Call on Pacific Carpet & Tile Cleaning in Orange County CA  (949) 545-5205   www.pacificcarpetcleaning.net

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Stone Floor Cleaning & Maintenance – Orange County

Stone flooring is an investment and one with a good return. It’s almost guaranteed to add value to your home. Taking care of it isn’t hard, but knowledge is power.  Click here to find a professional stone floor cleaning company in your area.

It’s Its Own Worst Enemy

Sand, grit, and dirt can damage natural stone surfaces because they are abrasive. Use a vacuum on your floor if it’s textured. But avoid the beater bar. Those bristles are tough and might scratch your flooring.

An old-fashioned dust mop works well, as does a broom. Wet mop as needed.

Be Proactive

Walk-off mats or area rugs on either side of entrances from the outside will help collect dirt before it reaches your beautiful new floor. Choose a rug or mat with a non-slip surface.

There’s Clean And There’s Cleaner

Damp mopping your natural stone floor will help keep it looking beautiful. But your retailer or manufacturer can suggest special cleaners meant specifically for stone floors.

Wipe up spills immediately. Use soap, not detergent, for good-old fashioned mopping. Liquid Ivory or a castile soap product work well. Too much cleaner or soap may leave a film and cause streaks, so rinse well. Change your rinse water frequently.

Don’t use products that contain lemon juice, vinegar or other acids on marble, limestone, or travertine. Avoid abrasive cleaners or any ammonia-based cleaners. These products will dull the floor’s luster.

Retail grout cleaners, scouring powders or bathroom tub and tile cleaners can mar the finish on your stone.

Never mix bleach and ammonia. The combination creates a toxic gas.

To remove algae or moss from your stone in outdoor pool, patio or hot tub areas, flush with clear water and use a mild bleach solution.

Last But Not Least

Have a floor warming party! Ask your strongest friends to help you move your furniture back on to your new floor to avoid chipping, scratching, or cursing. Pad the feet of your furniture with felt pads or some other kind of protector to guard against damage.

As with all new floors, it’s important to maintain the caulking in areas that are susceptible to water. You don’t want water seeping under your flooring.

Remember that each stone has its own level of porosity. The more porous the stone, the more likely it will stain. Sealing your stone floor may be a really good idea. Use a reliable professional.

Unlike the proverbial rolling stone, yours have found their place in your home. Enjoy the beauty and timeless quality of your new stone flooring.

Call today for a Free estimate 949-545-5205!

Call on Pacific Carpet & Tile Cleaning in Orange County CA  (949) 545-5205   www.pacificcarpetcleaning.net

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So, you have a stain on your upholstered fabric? Where do you go from here?


What is a cleaning code?

There are several common fabric cleaning codes. Fortunately, they’re easy to remember:

S – Solvent clean (that is “dry-cleaning”)

W – Water clean

WS – Water or Solvent clean

X – No liquids, vacuum clean only

Truth is, you can clean about 80% of S-coded fabrics with a water-based cleaning system, if done carefully. The most common tool is water-extractor upholstery cleaner (sort of like a wet-vac with a spray). Dry cleaning machines are 10 times more expensive and are rarer.

What cleaner do I use?

Perhaps more important than the cleaning code is to use what’s appropriate for the staining material. You must use a cleaning solution that will clean the staining material. The basic chemical rule is “Likes dissolve likes.” There are two broad classes of solvents:

  • Polar solvents (e.g., Water-based). They are called polar because they have a positive side and a negative side on a molecular level. Use water-based cleaners for stains that are water-based:
    • Most foods
    • Body fluids (hair and skin oils, urine, vomit, blood, and feces)
    • General overall soiling from use
    • Some inks.

Various cleaners work by attracting and holding the stain particles, using enzymes to break them down, attacking them with acidity or alkalinity, adding or removing oxygen from the stain, or changing them chemically into something that is easy to remove.

  • Non-polar (e.g., hydrocarbon based). Examples of these are odorless mineral spirits, acetone, AFTA, Goof-Off, Pro-Gel and d-Limonene (citrus-oil-based) cleaners. You can use these sparingly with a Q-tip swab or clean cloth. Use these cleaners for stains that are hydrocarbon or petroleum based:
    • Tar
    • Grease
    • Shoe polish (wax)
    • Candle wax
    • Some inks
    • Lipstick

NOTE: Before using any cleaner, test on an inconspicuous spot for damage or color loss before attacking a stained area. Fabrics with a rubberized backing may be damaged by non-polar solvents. Put a bit of the cleaner on a clean towel or swab and rub and press against the fabric for several minutes and observe any color transfer or discoloration.

For spot stains you should circle the stain with solution and work your way inward to keep the stain from bleeding away.

Don’t remove the fabric from cushions when cleaning or you may never get it back on correctly if it shrinks or skews.

What are the most important factors of cleaning?

If you think about any cleaning you do, whether it’s your washing machine, your shower, or washing your car, there are four important factors, remembered as TACT.

  • Time – the amount of time that the cleaning solution is in contact with the stain. Usually the more the better.
  • Agitation – a little mechanical agitation, tamping, or rubbing will help break up most stains. Too much can start to abrade the fabric, though.
  • Chemical action – using the right solution and letting the chemicals do the work.
  • Temperature – most chemical reactions double in speed with every 18 degrees F (10 degrees C). You can also help reach the melting or plasticizing point of some of the staining material to aid in its removal.

For almost any stain, if there is debris on the surface scrape it up and dry vacuum before beginning any wet cleaning. Blot up liquid stains with a dry towel as soon as possible.

Where can I find cleaning solutions?

Most carpet cleaning supply houses carry a complete selection of cleaning solutions for upholstery as carpet cleaners often sideline into upholstery cleaning. If you live in a small town, there are mail order firms. Eighty percent of carpet is nylon, and the majority of the rest is olefin, so carpet cleaners don’t face the wide variety of fibers available in upholstery.

How do I identify a fabric’s fiber?

The best way is if you can determine from the manufacturer. Finished goods are required to list the inside contents of a piece, but not the covering. The best way is to do a fiber id burn test (see www.pacificcarpetcleaning.net ). In this, you observe the flame, odor and ash of burning a fiber. This is not foolproof, though, since many fabrics are combinations of two or more fibers. I also recommend a butane lighter as matches and candles have their own odors.

Fiber id, though, is not necessary if you know the cleaning code and color-fastness properties. It’s probably best left to testing labs.

What are some problem fabrics for cleaning?

  • 100% cotton – this fabric “stains easily and cleans with difficulty.” In addition, the darker colors such as reds and greens are prone to fading and color-bleed with water.Some color bleed with dry abrasion on a white towel or general use. Consumers have a hard time believing that something as durable as jean material makes a lousy upholstery fabric.
  • Haitian cotton – this is cotton that’s minimally processed, usually white or off-white with little brown specs (sort of like vanilla bean ice cream). The problem is, when wet, the lignin in the specs (the woody part of the cotton plant) bleed brown and turn the whole piece into a yellow-brown. Avoid excessive water, dry quickly, and avoid excessively high pH (alkaline). There are special cleaners for water-cleaning Haitian cotton.
  • Olefin – being a petrochemical, it loves petroleum and releases it with difficulty.

What are some problem stains for cleaning?

  • Blood – use hydrogen peroxide. Commercial version is “Stain Magic”
  • Ink – the longer ink sits, the more difficult it is to remove. Most inks are like paint that sets up and the resins and pigments bind. Ink stains also vary by color of ink and manufacturer. Some inks are water-based. Most are solvent based, so use a solvent cleaner or a special ink-removing cleaner.
  • Red food dye, found in red beverages, candy, some tomato products like catsup or spaghetti sauce. Red Relief is an excellent product to use for these, and about the only thing that works.
  • Organic dye stains such as juice or berry stains, blood, mustard, wine, etc. Stain Magic is a very good product for these.
  • Vomit, acne medicine, laundry bleach, etc. Sometimes, these will bleach the dye out of fabric. No cleaner will clean back lost color.
  • Rust – there are a number of specialized rust removing solutions, most of them are acid-based. I’ve had luck using white vinegar on very fresh rust stains.
  • Animal or vegetable oil (including food stains, hair or body oil) – use an alkaline cleaner to saponify (turn the grease into “soap” like the pioneers made lye soap)

Call today for a Free estimate 949-545-5205!

Call on Pacific Carpet & Tile Cleaning in Orange County CA  (949) 545-5205   www.pacificcarpetcleaning.net

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Floors come in a myriad of choices, but tile remains an attractive choice among homeowners. Unlike hardwood floors, tile floors are durable, waterproof, easy to install and available in an array of styles. Most importantly, they don’t require as much maintenance as carpets do. However, if you want your tile floors looking like new for years, you should know how to clean them properly. Below are the best ways to clean tile floors, whether they are ceramic, vinyl or stone.

Clean Your Tile Floors Regularly

Don’t wait until your tile floors get really dirty, as you may want to avoid using strong chemicals that will degrade your tiles in the long run. Plus, who wants to spend hours kneeling on the floor just to scrub away stubborn stains? To prevent these problems, you should learn how to clean tile floors on a frequent basis. Cleaning tile floors routinely or even daily may sound tiresome. But, it’s not as hard as you think. You just need to follow these simple steps.

1. Sweep your tile floors daily with a fluffy dust mop or vacuum to remove loose dust and dirt. Remember, you should never use a straw broom to replace either the dust mop or vacuum because that will scratch your tiles.

2. Believe it or not, mopping the floor with warm water once a week will help your tiles stay nice and shiny. If you are looking to hire a cleaning pro to take care of your tile floors, you can see how much it will cost in your area through our house cleaning cost guide.

3. Dry the floor right after damp mopping to avoid new dirt from quickly setting in wet areas and becoming hard-to-remove grimes.

4. Wipe up spills, including water, immediately by using absorbent cloths. However, for those dirtier spills like pet accidents or dropped raw meat, you have to clean them with a cleanser or disinfectant. Since strong chemicals may dull your tiles, try to only spray the area where spills occurred.

5. Put a doormat both outside and inside your home to eliminate tracking mud or water on your tile floors. This step is especially important during rain and snow seasons.

How To Clean Tile Floors , Orange County

Apply Deep Cleaning Solutions From Time to Time

Does your tile floor look nasty no matter how often you mop? Try a stronger cleaning solution. These different deep-cleaning solutions will remove greasy residues and stains without damaging your tiles.

1. Mop the floor with a mix of ½ cup white vinegar and a gallon of warm water. The acidity in vinegar can work as a natural grease-remover that makes this approach especially useful for kitchens. You can also use ½ cup of plain rubbing alcohol as a substitute for vinegar.

2. Mix fresh water and dish detergent and mop it on the floor to remove hard grease.

3. Spot-clean stains with a mixture of half scouring powder and half warm water. Spread the mixture onto a stain by using a clean cloth and let it sit on the tile for 5-10 minutes. Then, scrub the area with a soft brush and thoroughly rinse the tile with warm water and a cloth. Repeat the process until you remove the stain.

Please note that acids like vinegar and some other cleaning products will erode natural stone tiles. Therefore, you should only use special pH neutral cleaners to safely clean your stone tile floors. Gentle dish soap, hydrogen peroxide, cornstarch and baking soda, for example, are good natural cleaning options.

Worried about cleaning your exquisite marble floor? Consider hiring a professional. The national average cost for tile & grout cleaning service is $401. See the specific cost in your area.

Don’t Forget Grout Cleaning

Never overlook the importance of tile grout, as bright grout will make your tile floors look great and new. Before you go with commercial cleaners, try to clean your grout with a mixture of baking soda and water. The steps are simple:

1. Saturate the dirty grout with the paste.

2. Let the paste sit for a while or even overnight, depending on how dirty your grout is.

3. Scrub the grout with an old toothbrush.

4. Wash the paste out with warm water.

If your grout doesn’t look as bright as you would like, you can use a non-toxic cleaner like oxygen bleach. Add water to the bleach powder based on the product’s instructions and rub the solution on the grout with the edge of a sponge. Repeat as necessary. Finally, rinse the floor with warm water to remove the residue.

Whether you decide to use baking soda or oxygen bleach, after you are done cleaning, you should apply a sealer to the grout, keeping the dirt away in the future.

Conclusion

Like other areas of the home, the best maintenance is always precautionary rather than reactionary. If you follow these steps and regularly clean your tile floors, they will look as good as new for years to come.

Call today for a Free estimate 949-545-5205!

Call on Pacific Carpet & Tile Cleaning in Orange County CA  (949) 545-5205   www.pacificcarpetcleaning.net

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How To Handle Cleaning Carpet Stains, Orange County

Cleaning carpet stains is an inevitable scenario for homeowners and business owners alike, though the severity and complexity of the problem may require professional intervention. An individual can usually handle innocuous residue that can plague flooring such as dirt and mud, so long as they use the proper detergents and dry the area properly. There are, however, many cases where certain types of situations present the need for a trained professional who understands the unique scenarios that can arise in this type of treatment.

Cleaning carpet stains that contain a great deal of moisture may seem like an easy job, however, it can be a much more serious problem. One of the greatest threats that water damage can pose is mold growth. Without a professional with the proper tools and identification techniques needed to spot the potential for mold growth, it’s normally not possible for an individual to handle the issue properly. Mold can cause serious health problems, not to mention the loss of the flooring itself that may eventually need replacing because of improper drying techniques. That is why investing in a professional service is the best bet when confronted with this type of problem.

Some of the most complex restoration jobs stem from an odorous culprit. Smoke and pet stains are among the most common, and they need a qualified professional who knows which types of detergents to use that won’t damage the flooring but will eliminate the odor. Cleaning carpet stains and odors from pets is difficult, and those who attempt this alone increase the risk of the stain or odor simply being masked on the surface-level. A trained technician will remove any harmful  odor sources during the process and if needed, and accurately choose the correct  replacement swatches to  repair patches of carpet if the damage is severe.

It is safe to say that not every spilled drink or muddy footprint requires professional mediation, but it’s important to know that many do. It is important to understand the risks that these events can cause if they aren’t treated properly, some of which can lead to serious diseases and illnesses from mold growth. Investigating the severity of a stain is best left to certified technicians who will know how to approach, treat, and ultimately prevent the stain from reappearing.

Call today for a Free estimate 949-545-5205!

Call on Pacific Carpet & Tile Cleaning in Orange County CA  (949) 545-5205   www.pacificcarpetcleaning.net

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